One has shaved fresh fennel, giving the pizza a lovely crisp flavor that reminded us of Roberta’s Green and White summer seasonal pizza.
The branzino whole fish is another terrific dish, light and cooked to perfection.
Due to a constant battle between Sebastian and his business partner, antique pieces come on and off the walls, but the overall ambiance remains the same.
Just like the space itself, most of Malaparte’s décor was spotted on a cycle around the boroughs, and sometimes brought back on the back of Sebastian’s fixed gear bike.
Many people stumble upon the restaurant industry, especially in New York City.
In pursuit of a wallet to sustain an artistic lifestyle, artists, writers and actors alike, find themselves more times than not waiting tables, running food or even managing restaurants.
After eating at Malaparte many times, we know that he has succeeded in that goal.He wore simple dark green linen trousers, a cotton grey t-shirt and as usual, was unshaven.You would never guess that Sebastian is in his late thirties or owns a restaurant: he is effortlessly handsome, tall, and looks like a scruffy actor or a European philosopher.As we listened to him tell his tale through the world of international relations, journalism, documentary film, philosophy and his peripheral forays into the restaurant world, we asked Sebastian, “At any point in your life did you imagine opening a restaurant in New York City?” To which he replied, “After a while you have to commit to something…the restaurant world made me unmotivated to find another job.” It is not so often that someone “settles” for the volatile, nocturnal life of running a restaurant, but for Sebastian, this just made sense.
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The spaghetti carbonara is made with guanciale, as it should be, and without cream, just egg yolks and Parmesan (recipe below.) It is creamy and rich without the cream, it has the meaty and salty flavor of the guanciale, and it is one of our favorite dishes on the menu.