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The sun is rising over Varkala in the laidback state of Kerala in south-western India, the bright red globe looking more like dusk than dawn.
Here, hawkers sell hippie clothes and Ayurvedic doctors offer massages among the juice bars, seafood restaurants, and bakeries. In high season, North Cliff can feel like walking through soup, as hundreds of people meander along the narrow pathway. Three kilometres by auto-rickshaw, Varkala town has canteens serving delicious dosas, and my favourite restaurant – Dwarka – has the best thali, served on banana leaf, and paneer butter masala I’ve tasted.
Even Wes would struggle to create a better set for a restorative break.
For over a year now, the Kerala porotta, which has been a hot favourite among true blue Malayalis, was under the scanner, thanks to campaigns on its ill effects.
“We’re not ex-pros, we just stumbled on it and did it.” With the sport in its infancy in India – an estimated 700 people now surf countrywide – Soul & Surf offers free lessons to local teenagers on Sundays, many of whose parents can’t swim.
When they first opened, they had four rooms and no experience, but offered a warm welcome.